The Lebanese couturier Elie Saab brought the Paris haute couture season for spring/summer 2004 to a close yesterday with a glittering Arabian Nights fantasy.

Saab's clothes are not for shrinking violets; a shade he is particularly fond of, especially when mixed with vivid lime, fuchsia or shocking pink.

His favoured line was as sinuous as a serpent, with plunging cleavage, a total absence of back and a skirt, split to the thigh to reveal a generous amount of leg.

"Goddess gowns", in pale gold chiffon, featured gold-sequined bodices and straps. Lime chiffon gowns, sprinkled with glitter, had scarves trailing like pennants from the shoulders and trains that fluttered around the legs. Red rose-printed silk gowns, with swathed bustier bodices were re-embroidered with beads and diamante.

Daywear included metallic mini-trenchcoats and suits in lace and brocade, worn with gold, over-the-knee boots.

Haute couture shows traditionally end with "the bride". Saab multiplied the opportunity by five, showing a series of wedding gowns in pale beige, sprinkled with gold and encrusted with lace.

His designs were paraded on a long, laser-lit Perspex catwalk in the Palais Brongniart, the old Paris stock exchange.

But within a few weeks, many will be seen doing the celebrity strut along the red carpet in Hollywood.

On Monday, Saab will send his entire collection to Los Angeles to begin fittings for the Oscars.

He is best known for the exotic gown with transparent bodice embroidered with flowers which Halle Berry wore when she collected her Oscar in 2002.

He is also a favourite of Queen Rania of Jordan, Maria Shriver, Christina Aguilera and Mary J Blige and actresses such as Joely Richardson, Calista Flockhart, Debra Messing and Elizabeth Hurley. Cue paparazzi.